Part 1
Bute is an Island in the Firth of Clyde, on the west coast of Scotland. It is roughly 15miles long by 5 miles wide with a population of 6,500 . It’s regarded as one of the happiest places to live in the UK, and is easily accessed from Glasgow airport. I was keen to do an unsupported paddle board trip and Kevin had suggested that Bute would be a great option.
This took place in September 2023. I had looked at videos and read accounts of self supported trips by paddle board beforehand . I bought a large dry bag and a dry rucksack, some elastic cord , a Kelly kettle, and an OS map . I added these to my camping and paddling equipment , booked my Easy-jet flights to Glasgow, along with a hold bag and large cabin bag and set off the following week.
On arrival at Glasgow, I caught the bus to Glasgow Central station , bought my incredibly cheap train and ferry tickets, and arrived at Rothesay , in Bute , a few hours later. It quickly became apparent , that carrying a 14ft paddle board along with all my equipment, for any distance, was a struggle. I had booked a night at The Glenburn Hotel, a beautiful, but dated establishment, on the outskirts of Rothesay.(photo 1). They agreed to store the equipment I wasn’t taking, until my return.
I carried my board to the slip, north of the ferry terminal, inflated it then went back for the rest of my equipment, buying food drinks , methylated spirits and a lighter on my way. From there I headed North, and with a good tail wind, I was at the North of the island , at a designated kayaking campsite , within a few hours. This spot is excellent, with a good lean to shelter, a composting toilet shed and space for around 4 to 6 tents. It has a good map of the Argyll sea kayaking trail route from Helensburgh.
This was the point where things started to fall apart. I had a great evening but in the morning the wind from the South had got up to a force 6. I was sheltered where I was and did set off but very quickly realised, that progress would be impossible past the Northwest tip of the island. I headed back, unpacked and settled down for a day sheltering from the rain and wind. An otter, a seal and a host of bird life kept me entertained. I was joined that evening by 3 kayakers, who had paddled across from the ferry terminal at Colintraive, and who planned to paddle round the island, over the weekend.
The following morning was sunny and calm and I set off soon after dawn, anxious to make up as much ground as possible. I was running low on fluids so paddled into Ettrick bay , to the cafe , for a cooked breakfast and water. The kayakers had past me, just beforehand. Everything looked positive, until I hit a strong headwind ,at Ardscalpsay point. It became impossible to make good progress , so I make camp for the night, behind the shelter of a dry stone wall. The following morning was no better, with a strong crosswind and driving rain. I set off, but within a short space of time decided to land in Scalpsie Bay.
I got dressed packed my gear neatly and left it in the car park, before heading up to Scalpsie Farm. It was Sunday, there was church music but very little else and I was worried, I was disturbing their prayers. The lady of the house answered, baby in arms, and explained the radio music was there to keep the collies quiet. She kindly organised a taxi, and within no time I was on my way back to the Glenburn Hotel in Rothesay.
I then spent a dry but windy 2 days exploring the South Coast of Bute by foot. “Mount Stuart”, is definitely worth a visit, along with the Southern most part of the “West Island way”. Despite not completing my goals, I had a great 6 day holiday and learned some valuable lessons. Paddleboards loaded with equipment are very stable and great, downwind, but terrible in any meaningful crosswind or headwind. It’s also a real struggle to carry everything and a wheeled Paddle board bag, make life much easier. Also a good supply of water is essential. I was slightly unwell from the stream water, on the north coast, despite filtering it and boiling it. I had unfinished business and returned 2 years later ……
Alex Blampied