Fast forward to September 2025. There was a weather window, I had free time and I was keen to complete the challenge I had set myself 2 years previously. The flights were less frequent and didn’t work as well as previously. That mean’t flying out on Sunday afternoon and staying overnight at Glasgow Airport Holiday In Express.
I got up before dawn on Monday, had a quick breakfast and caught the bus to Glasgow central station. The train to Wemyss Bay arrived in time for the early ferry to Rothesay and I was there by 8am to do my shopping. This time I had elected to head South, clockwise round the island, in order to cover the ground I hadn’t completed last time and to get the exposed, rocky, south coast done whilst the weather was good. I launched from a small jetty right outside the Glenburn at around 9.30, having left my paddle board bag there beforehand.
Although there was nothing wrong with my previous paddle board , I now had a Red Paddle Voyager 13’2”, with a wheeled bag for easy carrying. The board is also slightly lighter and stiffer . It has a V bow, a small bow skeg and less depth, so tracks much better, behaving more like a hard board. I also had a proper water container this time with a good 6 litres, in addition to other fluids. The OS map was now loaded onto my phone app. This made life a great deal easier than trying to keep a paper map dry. You could also see exactly where you were and scroll or zoom in or out , as needed.
The journey south was relatively trouble free until a crosswind cut through a low lying portion of the island. I had to kneel and continually paddle on the left side , in order to stay inshore and safely cross Kilchattan Bay. I was in the shelter of the high ground less than an hour later. It was great to see the calm south coast with all the rocky fingers stretching out and the sheltered coves in between (photo8). This was a stark contrast to what had been, an exposed impassable section, on the previous trip.
Once reaching the Southwest tip, I was , once again exposed to the increasing wind and after battling against it for over 40 minutes , I decided to double back and make camp early on the sheltered south coast.
The next day was calm throughout. I was heading North within 10 minutes of setting off. This was by far, the best days paddle. I was keen to stop and explore some forts I hadn’t seen on the previous trip but was conscious of the fact, I needed to make up for lost time .
There were plenty of seals, a friendly otter and a great deal of bird life , as well as great views of Arran, and Inchmarnock. I stopped at the Ettrick Bay Cafe for lunch and to replenish the water . Other than that, I paddled continuously and reached the designated campsite on the Northern tip at around 5pm. I staked my claim before a group of youngsters on a charter boat landed . I had a good conversation with the captain. The yacht is run as a charity for underprivileged children and whilst I’d had a great day, he was cursing the absence of any wind
After a good sleep and a relaxed breakfast, I set off for the last leg. I only had to cover, just over half the east coast and expected an early finish. Everything started well but there was a lack of wildlife down the northern part of the east coast. On approaching the boatyard, before Kames Bay, I found, I was paddling against a slight current, and a headwind. It became steadily worse, within the bay itself and I elected to stay close inshore, rather than cut across. I was further delayed by the ferries at Rothesay having to wait for an opportunity to cut across their path, but arrived outside the Glenburn and was checking in by 3pm.
My flight was around 11am the next morning which mean’t catching the 1st ferry , before dawn. Travel was straight forward and I was home in Jersey by 1pm the same day . I’d achieved by goal but had no regrets , about the time I’d spent ashore, 2 years previously. Bute is an excellent paddling destination but also great for a walking holiday.
Alex Blampied